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Italian joint debuts to massive popularity

November 10th, 2009, 11:13 am · 15 Comments · posted by Jeff Overley

buon-beef

Big crowds aren’t always a sure sign of good grub - after all, Red Lobster and Sizzler really pack ‘em in.

But when a brand-new spot manages to achieve instant popularity, something good has got to be going on, right?

I figured as much when passing by Buon Gusto, an Italian joint that took up residence in a restaurant that for years housed a KFC and for weeks housed an ill-fated venture called The Chicken House.

Crowds were bursting out the doors from the day this spot opened earlier this year; I first stopped by on a Monday evening and ended up just leaving because the place was so packed.

After that I decided to just call my order in, and everything was ready super-quick that way.

While I never ate at BG, the concept is interesting - there’s a deli case and open kitchen, but the decor features warm lighting and fashionable tables topped with little jugs of olive oil. It’s like you order at a fast food restaurant and then sit down to eat at a bistro.

Anyway, the menu is big and features all the familiar pizza-and-pasta offerings. Prices are neither low nor high. What, exactly, is all the fuss about?

buon-turkey

It certainly isn’t about this fresh but uninspired turkey sandwich. I know it looks gorgeous, but the cold cuts were all about quantity over quality, and the roll was just average.

Much better is the BBQ beef hoagie at top. It was about all you can ask from this simple classic - ultra-moist bovine with a rich, mild sauce.

I will plus both sandwiches for their value - each was stuffed with meat and roughly the size of a Duraflame log, for about $7.

On the pasta side, portions are also massive.

buon-rav

The cheese ravioli (around $9, if I remember right) are plentiful and packed with a lotta ricotta. The sauce is not mind-blowing, but is certainly decent.

One dish I’d never seen before combines shredded lamb, feta cheese and a rich brownish-red sauce.

buon-lamb

I was mainly trying it for its uniqueness, but this one really delivered - the sauce was impressively complex, and there was so much lamb I would’ve thought Little Bo Peep was nearby.

Overall, I think Buon Gusto’s success reflects more on the dearth of good Italian spots in the area than its own food, but the fare is certainly respectable. If you’re in the neighborhood, it’s worth the wait.

Buon Gusto
5005 Warner Ave.
Huntington Beach
714-846-2600

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