What started as a search for some tapas this weekend ended two days (and two meals) later laughing around a table full of jumbo prawns and prosciutto-wrapped artichoke with a charming chef and a group of strangers.

The culprit? Old Vine Cafe in Costa Mesa.

When Aire shut down last year, I wondered how The Camp would ever fill the void left in the wake of bite-sized raw tuna tacos and warm churros dipped in chocolate and creme. Then Old Vine moved into a smaller space hidden in the back of the eco-friendly shopping plaza and RAISED the bar with its mouth-watering menu, spot-on wine parings and intimate, comfortable atmosphere.

So my first stop at Old Vine was Saturday night. And after one look at the tasting menu, I quickly decided against tapas. Four courses of gourmet dishes paired with wines from France, Italy and Spain? For $60? Sold to the girl with zero willpower.

First course was a beautiful crab cake ball sitting in the middle of a perfect citrus cream sauce. The panko crusting formed a crisp container around more fresh crab than I’ve ever seen in a crab cake. My companions and I agreed that this was one of the best we’ve tasted. The wine, a 2006 Domaine de la Villaudiere Sancerre from Loire Valley in France, provided a refreshing balance. I’m sure I’m going to crave this combination next time the weather is right for a late afternoon meal in the sun.

The second course was a ravioli filled with smoked duck, fresh goat cheese and porcini mushroom. The rich ingredients threatened to be too strong and salty. But the earthy, berry wine (2005 Terre Stregate Aglianico “Manet” Campania Italy) tempered the tastes.

This stewed leg of lamb was my favorite. I used my fork to pull apart the meat, it was so tender. And it was light for lamb. Sitting on top of the meat cubes was risotto stuffed inside a crusted ball – an innovative way to visually connect this dish with the crab cake. It tasted great, too. And as the waiter poured my wine (2005 Altos de Luzon Jumilla) he described exactly where to find the vineyard if I was looking at a map of Spain.

My friends managed to resist the tasting menu in favor of splitting an old vine salad (one wanted to lick the plate because she loved the citrus dressing so much). Both also ordered and loved the fettuccini pomodoro with a (generous) half glass of the suggested wine: a 2005 Bera Barbera D’Alba.

We all shared two orders of the tres leche chocolate cake. The dish was so pretty I felt guilty messing it up. That didn’t last long, though. Remembering it is making me hungry again.

Fast-forward to Monday when a friend tells me that Old Vine hosts a weekly wine and cheese tasting for $20. (I know, I didn’t think it could get any better either).
I showed up early and my friend was a little late. So chef/owner Mark McDonald poured a sneak preview of a sparkling raspberry-colored wine while I waited. When he saw me trying to snap a picture of a bookshelf in the kitchen that I spotted through an open door, he invited me back to get a closer shot.
A patron sitting nearby said what I was thinking: “You wouldn’t get to do that in any other restaurant.”
Five wines and five cheeses later — including a triple cream that made my soul smile – McDonald disappeared into the kitchen. Soon after, the room filled with a garlic aroma. We were finishing up our wine when he brought us and a group from another table a plate of jumbo prawns. What fortune! Then he brought artichoke and joined us to chat.
By the end of the night, all six of us strangers were sitting together comparing favorite restaurants. A perfect after-work evening.

I can’t wait to try their breakfast. And the tapas. And the next combinations of wine and cheese Chef Mark dreams up.
And if you’re looking for the perfect spot to take your Valentine, call them now for a reservation. I’m jealous you’ve got to have a sweetheart to sample a menu like this.

Old Vine Café
2937 Bristol St. Suite A-102
Costa Mesa, CA 92626

714-545-1411

Dinner: Reservations recommended.
Tuesday - Thursday 5 p.m. - 9:00 p.m.
Friday & Saturday 5 p.m. - 10:00 p.m.

Breakfast:
Served Every Day from 7 a.m. - 3 p.m.

Wine & Cheese: Reservations recommended.

Monday nights from 4-6 p.m.

Posted in: French • Restaurants by price: $15-$30 • Restaurants by price: $31-$50 • Restaurants by price: $50 and over • cheese • Italian • Wine |

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