Orange County Register

I rarely order pad Thai these days. After too many meaningless versions, my interest waned. Pad Thai, in fact, is a poor barometer of a Thai restaurant’s worth. Even a respectable Thai restaurant can turn out mediocre pad Thai.

So on those days that salty, slithery noodles seem necessary, I call up Bangkok Taste in Santa Ana and place a phone order for pad see-ew ($6.95), a jumble of broad rice noodles stained with soy sauce and pan fried with Chinese broccoli and shrimp.

Before I leave the sleepy strip mall where Bangkok Taste sits, I pop the trunk of my car because, to my shame, there have been times when the one or two miles down Grand Avenue back to work seems like a trip around the world and I’ve opened up the white container and, quite unattractively, started in on those noodles.

Bangkok Taste, 2737 N. Grand Ave., Santa Ana. 714-532-2216.

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