Orange County Register

As it does every Tuesday, a whole pig has been roasting in the kitchen of Havana Mania. It will be carved up and served at dinner, it’s moist flesh topped with shards of its own crispy skin. I can’t imagine a better dinner. (It’s usually available for lunch, too, but it wasn’t ready in time on this particular day).

Lechon Cubana (pork slow roasted with garlic and onions) is always on the menu here. It’s nothing more than sliced pork served with rice and beans. But there’s a deep flavor to that pork, a flavor of real swine that’s beguiling in ways only omnivores will experience.

The rest of the menu is filled with dozens of chicken, beef and seafood dishes. The only other item I’ve tried is the saltado de camarones, shrimp sauteed with garlic, tomatoes and onions. Not bad, but forgettable. Stick with the swine.

Thirst may be an issue. Try a mojito. They have about 10. All are made with rum, mint and sugar cane. The blue mojito is sauced with Curaçao, the midnight mojito has Meyers rum. There’s a mango mojito that I suspect is calling my name. Happy hour is from 4-6 p.m. Tuesday-Friday, when mojitos go for $3-$3.50.

(Whole pig is roasted and served only on Tuesdays, $7.99 for lunch, $10.99 at dinnertime.) Entree range: $8.99-$14.99.

Havana Mania, 975 E. Birch St., Brea. 714-529-2233.

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