Orange County Register

I’ll start off by apologizing for that title. It’s been a long day and that’s all I got.

I’m about to leave work and realizing that all I have in my refrigerator is olive-oil mayonnaise and an exceptionally smooth Estonian vodka named Türi. There’s a packet of oatmeal - probably two years old - in my cupboard. Even though it’s not on my way, my hankering is too strong not to make it over to Zena’s in Orange.

Shawerma - that inverted triangular hunk of beef and lamb on a spit - is all about timing and when you order during the right hour, Zena’s is exceptional. It’s full of meaty flavor, crisp and properly unctuous. The lamb kebabs are some of the best I’ve ever had.

But I’m fighting a cold, my appetite idles, so the choice tonight will be between a ma’ane sandwich ($4.50), salty Lebanese sausage with tomatoes, pickles and lemon juice, or an arnabeet sandwich ($3.50), made of fried cauliflower, pickled turnips and a slathering of tahini sauce. Either one should go down well with some of that vodka.

Zena’s, 2094 N. Tustin Ave., Orange. (714) 279-9511.

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